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Big Four Ice Caves By Charles H. Anderson Jr. 1980
Photo By Jim Papadakis Big Four is actually the name of a magnificent mountain on the south wall of the Stillaguarmish River Valley East, Everett, Washington. This one is a quaint little valley, not touched by the lakes of big industry, but well acquainted with Washington’s colorful and wild, historical gold and silver boom. Big Four Ice Caves are easy to reach. They are precisely one mile up a fine Forest Service trail from the site of the old Big Four Inn, about 25 miles east of Granite Falls, Washington. The trail rises about 300 feet from a beginning at 1,700 feet, making Big Four the lowest glacier cave on record anywhere! Visitors can appreciate that fact well if they have ever climbed the 2.8 miles to the Paradise & Stevens Glacier Caves, much of which is above 6,000 feet at Mount Rainier National Park in Washington, USA. Big Four Glacier is really not a glacier at all; it is a debris pile. Snow avalanches tumble down the mountain continually during the cooler half of the year and accumulate in the bowl-shaped cirque on the north flank of the mountain. Because it is on the north, it is sheltered from direct sunlight and consequently is sheltered from the melting radiant heat. This Ice field is somewhat like the Glaciers in the crater of Mount St. Helens. Thus, the “glacier” is perpetuated as series of conical masses that shrink and grow from season to season. Just because it is not a true glacier, don’t be fooled into thinking it is as safe as an ordinary snowfield. Glaciers have crevasses and solid flow features and these same features are the main reason this mass is called “glacier.” If you wander thoughtlessly across its surface you may be viciously swallowed by deep crack or a hole invisibly covered by thin snow. West Cave
Big Four Ice Caves in 1930 But why does a cave form in an avalanche heap? In the winter and early spring, snow tumbles down avalanche chutes. In the summer, however, streams flow down the same chutes and work their way through and beneath the debris cone. At first the streams bore very small channels in the ice. You could never explore one of these and if you tried you would be swimming in the ice-cold water. But warm air can get in. With each air current that passes through, the ice melts a bit. As its melts, more air can penetrate which then causes more melting, letting more air in. Thus, the process feeds itself. Eventually the caves are large and glorious as we see them. This is not the end of the process. As long as the summer lasts, the warm air melts ice away and enlarges the caves. Somewhere along the line, the cave ceiling meets up with the glacier surface (which, incidentally, is melting down at the same time) and all that remains is a large trench. Typically, the trench stage is ushered in by the terrific collapse of ceiling segments. The collapse process, known as flaking, is very dangerous. If you see blocks of ice lying on the floor, you should stay far clear of that area of the cave. Because the caves are formed initially by streams, the pattern they follow under the ice corresponds with the drainage pattern for the area. The map below illustrates this pattern. It is a representation of the caves in the summer of 1973, a time when the glacier was at its farthest known extent since 1967. At times like that, the caves could have been their largest. They are shown in this potential maximum size on the map.
Grylloblattids
Photo By Charles H. Anderson Big Four Ice Caves
Photo By Charles H. Anderson Jr. The size of the passages varies through time. Though it may take several years, each is destined to being small, enlarge, and eventually collapse. Then the mother stream will begin its small hole to repeat the process. The form of the passage remains relatively constant, however. Typically tunnel-like, the main course follows its streamlet, bending gently back and forth. At the upper end is a rock face where the stream comes tumbling in, and with it a lofty terminal chamber. The Eastern section of Big Four Ice Caves has a very impressive terminal chamber called the “Waterfall Room.” It is 240 feet high and the water plunging in roars as a jet engine. The lower end of the passage usually is a broad archway. As the cave melts out, the opening progresses upstream leaving canyon-like walls. Sometimes the archway is so wide that it begins to crack and sag in the middle. Ice is not particularly strong. Later a collapsed heap stands at the entrance to remind of the easily forgotten danger. If you try to visit the caves in winter or early spring and if you are lucky enough to find an entrance open, you can see some of the beauty that captivates the hearts of cave explorers. Icicles, ice columns, draperies, and ice “flowstone” glow brilliant blue-green in a profusion that cannot be matched on the earth’s surface. These secrets are guarded by the severity of winter access. This is the time when avalanches regularly bathe the slopes of Big Four Mountain; and deep soft snow covers, but does not protect you from, the rugged rocky terrain. If you want to see the caves, give yourself a fighting chance against nature’s cruel blows. Take plenty of warm clothing in the winter, as well as food and shelter in case you become stranded by bad weather. In soft snow, snowshoes or skis are a must. Beware of high avalanches from December to March each winter. In January 1992, three hikers were lucky to escape injury when they were trapped in the ice cave, buried by a snow slide. They dug their way out through about 20 feet of snow. As stated in all hiking guides, the caves are dangerous and should be treated as such. Avalanches are a constant threat through early spring and tons of ice from ceilings may come crashing to the floor at any time. AVALANCHE HOT-LINE IN SEATTLE: 206-526-6677 IN PORTLAND: 503-326-2400 Before going into the area, call the Avalanche Hot-line, call or visit a nearby National Forest Office, or National Park Office. If you plan to enter the caves, bring several light sources. These caves are not long and you can generally see daylight from any point inside. They are dark enough, however, that walking along the rock-strewn floor is hazardous without good light. The interior climate is cold and constantly dripping, so good rain gear is necessary for comfort and to avoid hypothermia. Last but not least, don’t go alone. Take someone with you and make sure somebody who is back with civilization knows where you are and when you plan to return. The Forest Service rangers at the Verlot Ranger Station (just a few miles downstream) will be glad to know of your plans and interest in the Big-Four Ice Caves. If you abide by these simple rules, your trip will go as smoothly as possible and your enjoyment will be maximized. For anyone who is interested in learning about Glacier Caves around the world; INTERNATIONAL GLACIOSPELEOLOGICAL SURVEY 547-SW 304th Street Federal Way, Washington, USA, 98023 Phone: 253 941 4101 E-mail glaciercav@aol.com Remember in winter: Avalanches tumble down the slope of Big Four Mountain. Avalanche debris makes tough walking. Don’t cross it unless you have no other choice as it’s pocketed with deep hidden holes that can catch your foot. The debris pile stands above neighboring trees. In some years it has been nearly 300 feet high. From August to October, look out for Flakes and don’t go near them, they will fall. And be on the lookout for collapsed entrances and don’t go in. They might fall in on you. Remember in summer and winter: 1. People have been killed in the Big Four Ice Caves. 2. People have been hurt by ice falling from the ceiling and the caves collapsing. 3. Also people have been rescue from filling into crevasses on the ice field. 4. People also have been rescue from the cave. 5. The Big Four Ice Caves is a very dangerous place to go into without the knowledge of the dangers of these caves.
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